Winter van vacations are not for everyone. But if you've ever been curious, we can promise you: the freedom is unmatched and the experience is unforgettable. Yes, you sacrifice the comforts of yukata* (ryokan robes) and - depending on your budget - standing upright. But you gain the flexibility of staying where it's good and leaving when it isn't. You can venture as far off the beaten track as your explorer's appetite demands, and as deep into the mountains as your snow chains can handle.*
Having spent a fair amount of time in Nagano and Niigata Prefectures in a previous van trip (think Hakuba and Myokokogen), we made it our goal to explore unique, more remote ski resorts. 2,000 kilometres and a ghastly amount of road tolls later, here are our hot takes and tips from our time in Japan.
(Val is enjoying our one night of luxury in a hotel, witnessing a stream of beginner snowboarders conquering a flat section at Ryuoo Snowpark)
Having spent a fair amount of time in Nagano and Niigata Prefectures in a previous van trip (think Hakuba and Myoko Kogen), we made it our goal to explore unique, more remote ski resorts. 2,000 kilometres and a ghastly amount of road tolls later, here are our hot takes and tips from our time in Japan.
all images © Valentine Tchoukhonine
Hot Takes: Mini Reviews for 12 Resorts
- Muikamachi Hakkaisan Ski Resort, Niigata Prefecture
Leg-burning groomers and an impressively efficient ropeway. A south-facing, narrow-ish resort with some ungroomed upper sections on powder days, and vast, beautiful views on sunny days.
- Hoshino Resorts Nekoma Mountain, Fukushima Prefecture
Interconnected North and South areas of Mt. Nekomadake form Hoshino Nekoma Resort, boasting 33 lifts and a commitment to maintaining high-quality terrain parks.
- Zao Onsen Ski Resort, Yamagata Prefecture
Popular for its Juhyo, or “snow monsters”, and its abundant onsens – with the second most acidic hot springs in Japan! We loved exploring the entire resort (36 lifts!), even if it meant a lot of one-footed skating.
- Geto Kogen Resort, Iwate Prefecture
One of the few resorts that has dedicated, in-bound tree runs, Geto Kogen is best enjoyed on weekdays when you can lap the gondola beyond your heart’s content. Some terrain awareness is needed, as many out-of-bounds seductive steeps will lead you into gullies!
- Appi Kogen Ski Resort, Iwate Prefecture
More upmarket, but high quality at every angle, and very suitable for a multi-day stay. Appi gifted us with beautifully gladed inbound tree runs and very approachable “the resort is not going to rescue you” sidecountry.
- Tazawako Ski Resort, Iwate Prefecture
Tazawako is keeping carving culture alive! Ski racers train on perfectly pitched steeps while hardboot snowboarders compete for the most perfect turns (we’re serious – there were competitions).
- Ani Ski Resort (Mt. Moriyoshi), Akita Prefecture
If you’re happy to hike for your turns, Ani is your adventure destination. It provides great snow and unique terrain – along with some wild weather. We recommend touring with guides and visiting the Akita dog named Hokuto, who lives in the base building.
- Tengendai kogen Ski Area, Yamagata Prefecture
A trip highlight, if you can time your runs with the ropeway, that runs every 20 minutes. The nearby traditional town of Shirabu Onsen is both beautiful and, to Val’s dismay, populated by onsen monkeys.
- Myoko Suginohara Ski Resort, Niigata Prefecture
The deservedly popular Sugi is already on many radars. It sits at a high elevation (1,855m up top) receives reliably abundant snow, and has a little bit of something for everyone, from backcountry aficionados to green-slope go-getters and even onsen junkies.
- Shiga Kogen (Yokoteyama), Nagano Prefecture
Shiga Kogen is a ski area encompassing 18 different resorts, mostly connected by lifts. Yokoteyama is the highest (notable) Japanese ski resort at 2,307m, has a brilliant crumpet restaurant at the summit, and also the strictest ski patrol of all resorts we’ve (ever) visited.
- Shiga Kogen (Okushiga), Nagano Prefecture
A favourite for their backcountry-positive approach to resort management. There are backcountry gates galore, so serious avalanche education is needed. Always ride with a buddy!
- Ryuoo Ski Park, Nagano Prefecture
Hundreds of first-timer snowboarders flock here daily for the free lessons. But this is also the only time we have SPRINTED to get first tracks. A mad rush off the ropeway will reward you with an ungroomed and (briefly) 39-degree slope.
( Good chains make for great campervan vacations. all images © Valentine Tchoukhonine)
Tips and Tricks
Before You Hit the Road
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Ask if you can leave unnecessary items behind at the van rental depot (roller ski bags and the van table were not welcome on our trip!)
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If your rental company doesn’t provide snow chains, look elsewhere or buy some yourself. If you do, make sure to check with the company that chains don’t violate the rental agreement.
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Usually the provided linen is not enough to keep warm overnight – a BYO winter sleeping bag is simple and guaranteed comfort.
Surviving Van Life in the Snow
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Foggy goggles are hard to avoid. Keeping the lens in a resealable, airtight bag while letting the frame dry out was the best way we found to deal with the high humidity in the van.
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Worried about dinging up the van’s interior with your gear? Grab some cheap foam tiles from a 100Yen store.
Staying Clean and Fed
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Onsens are your main (...only?) source of proper hygiene. Look up onsen ettiquette, bring your own towels to avoid the rental fee, and the later you go, the less crowded it is.
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Many coin laundromats have automatic detergent dispensers, but most of the dryers do NOT have heat settings. Be careful with your wool!
Where to Park and When to Drive
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Michi-no-Eki (government-designated roadside stations) are found across the country and are a reliable restroom option. If you park at the base of the ski resort, be forewarned: the snowploughs start their day at 4 am, and base buildings don’t open until 7 am. Plan accordingly!
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Plan your driving around weather conditions – snap freezes can ruin a safe descent, and a campervan’s weight distribution can make otherwise uneventful roads uncomfortably heart-pounding.
Stay Safe Out There
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Brush up on your avalanche awareness, terrain reading, and knowledge of local hazards. Practise with your tools, and always have a plan!
all images © Valentine Tchoukhonine - Words by Bri from the Rhythm Snowboardshop Team
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